Pitti Uomo 104: the ten brands of S|Style sustainable style
by Modem – Posted June 12 2023
© Modem

A new edition of S|Style sustainable style returns to Pitti Uomo 104 (13-16 June 2023, Florence, Fortezza da Basso), the tradeshow’s own-brand platform dedicated to promoting sustainable practices. The exhibition project presented by the Fondazione Pitti Discovery has been key to attracting top international buyers and media representatives alike, providing an important showcase of 10 international and diverse brands scouted from around the world by journalist and curator Giorgia Cantarini. This 7th edition welcomes for the first time an exclusive partnership with Kering MIL.

Participating brands at S| Style June 2023 include Cavia (Italy), Dalpaos (Italy), Dhruv Kapoor (India), Isnurh (Denmark), Jeanne Friot (France), Ksenia Schnaider (Ukraine), Olooh (Côte d’Ivoire), Permu (United Kingdom), Steven Passaro (France), young n sang (South Korea).

Cavia (Italy)
A project that combines the creativity of Italian fashion with a commitment to the planet. The stylist, Martina B., aims to transmit Made in Italy authenticity, imagination and craftsmanship. Knitting is an ancient process that requires time and is nourished by tradition: each piece is created from recycled clothes and fabrics, avoiding waste. Following an Mto business model, the brand pays attention to its environmental impact. From fabric to label, everything is made using pre-existing materials with a view to a new beauty. A delicate combination of kaleidoscopic tones and contrasting materials. Like an imaginative workshop, everything is born out of experimentation and a desire for beauty.

Dalpaos (Italy)
When he moved to London in 2008, Nicola Dal Paos, from Belluno, approached fashion almost like a game, with the craft production of his first line of leather bags in collaboration with an Italian artisan, subsequently creating a capsule collection of t-shirts and establishing his brand. Fibers, fabrics and deadstock hides are used in minimal garments from a circular fashion viewpoint. Each collection features clear references to the designer’s other passions which include gardening, contemporary art, interior design, traveling and, above all, the Dolomites. There have been various custom collaborations over the years, from the one with the stylists of Travis Scott and Don Toliver, Nashley, Yuman, to Italian artists like Ghemon, La Rappresentante di Lista and Mr. Rain for the Sanremo Italian Song Festival.

Dhruv Kapoor (India)
Far from the traditional imagination, this Delhi-based brand creates a game between past, present and future. Kapoor combines street with classic, with the emphasis on tailoring and the eclectic use of materials. 40% of the collection incorporates fabrics discarded by Indian producers. The brand’s objectives include reusing archive materials, revising garments from past collections, deadstock leather for the bags, the introduction of versatile pieces, the training up of the personnel inside the small family-run company with a desire to rediscover and update traditional techniques. The brand supports the Hothur Foundation which assists and requalifies acid attack survivors in India. Dhruv is part of the Milan Men’s Fashion calendar and will be on the catwalk with a co-ed collection from June 2022.

Isnurh (Denmark)
A contemporary brand that blends Scandinavian minimalism with international craftsmanship. Founded in 2017 by Kasper Todbjerg and Oliver Abrenica, it is based on the idea of Scandi-streetwear realized using quality fabrics, original artwork and ethical production, which is also appreciated by international celebs like singer Justin Bieber on his last tour. The Oeko-Tex Certified cotton which meets Cfs certified discarded materials, the collab with the Danish company Rodinia for the water free prints of the shirts are just some examples of the practices adopted in order to become even more sustainable. Short production chains and everything is made locally in the Copenhagen district.

Jeanne Friot (France)
A responsible approach for a brand that wants to redefine the concept of gender. Based in Paris, Jeanne Friot presents limited series of garments with a strong artistic and artisan feel. The designer burst onto the men’s fashion scene in Paris, debuting with a party in the basements of the Palais de Tokyo. The motto is “No gender, no carbon emissions, no hatred". Previously part of the creative team of Balenciaga, the brand Friot launched in 2020 is distinguished by its gaudy colors and t-shirts with activist slogans realized using rejects from other textile companies.

Kseniaschnaider (Ukraine)
This Ukrainian brand was established in 2011 by Ksenia Schnaider and Anton Schnaider. The collections include men’s and women’s ready-to-wear clothing that is reworked and upcycled, patchwork, denim and accessories. The designers have been active in the cutting-edge sector of denim creating asymmetrical jeans, demi-denim jeans (a uniform chosen by it-girls like Bella Hadid), cowboy jeans and denim jackets that simulate the effect of fur. Responsibility is part of the dna of the brand which wants to get even closer to the values of sustainability by also collaborating with certified partners like Isko.

Olooh Concept (Ivory Coast)
Founded in 2018 by Kader Diaby, Olooh is a sartorial and lifestyle menswear brand from the Ivory Coast. Created to promote Ivorian tradition and modernity utilizing organic fabrics such as linen, cotton, wood and leather treated with natural colors. After training as a photographer, Diaby began designing his pieces for photo shoots using sewing techniques he had learned from his dressmaker mother. The buttons are handmade with discarded metal pipes recovered from rubbish dumps. In the Senufo language Olooh means "our", and it is influenced by Ivorian culture and the energy of the designer’s hometown: Abidjan. With each collection the brand explores its identity through innovative garments that are well-constructed and timeless.

Permu (China/ United Kingdom)
Based in London, Permu was born out of an idea by Heyun Pan and Jing Qian, the duo that made its debut at the fall-winter 2022/23 Arab fashion week. Permu embraces the individuality of a spirit that does not adhere to gender codes. Classic lines are broken to create the uniform of the future. The Asian production team concentrates on innovative cuts for the models and new tailoring technologies. It supports the use of high range fabrics in pure natural wool, silk, cotton and renewable wool like the Italian Stylbiella and the British Scabal, 100% biodegradable and recyclable. 3D laser cutting is used in order to reduce fabric waste and excess material.

Steven Passaro (France)
Steven Passaro, a designer of Portuguese origin, based in Paris, graduated from the London College of Fashion with a master’s degree in menswear. After training with the Christian Dior creative team, where he became fascinated with sartorial construction and the art of pleating, he decided to launch his own eponymous brand. Influenced by the differences in the representations of the male body in the East and West, he debuted in 2019 at London fashion week with "Body Of Folds”. In 2022 he officially entered the Paris Fashion Week calendar. The collections are designed using 3D software to reduce waste, just one sample collection is created, organic cotton and wool scraps are used from the famous English John Foster and William Halstead woolen mills.

young n sang (South Korea)
young n sang is a menswear brand founded by Youngshin and Sanglim in 2018. This dynamic duo has been working together for 13 years, and has received recognition for its innovative craft style. In 2015 they won two awards after taking part in two CFDA projects, the visibility obtained brought Sang a collab with the NFL to personalize the Wilson soccer football for the 50th anniversary of the Super Bowl. young n sang is a brand that maximizes the concept of slow fashion. Each garment is made using craft techniques in the atelier and is mainly based on the use of salvaged yarn and the experimental creation of fabrics. There are three lines - Signature Line: the fabrics for the garments are made from vintage or reclaimed yarns; Handwoven Line: hand woven artisan garments using high- end yarns; Earth Line: reworked vintage clothes, organic or recycled fabrics; Organic Line: only organic fabrics.

S|Style Fashion show
June 14, 2023
03:00 pm - 04:00 pm | Sala Delle Nazioni
15:00 Fashion show
15:30 Fashion presentation

Photo: young n sang Merman collection. Courtesy image

© Modem